Everest Base Camp Trek 2017

Kathmandu was a hub of colour and noise. It was vibrant, it was dusty, it was busy, but it was very welcoming and friendly.

Thamel District, Kathmandu

Fragrant incense filled the air as you wandered around the narrow streets of the Thamel District. We spent a few days here prior to the trek and strangely I liked it. Our group of six clients arrived two days after us and we had a day with a tour guide showing us places of interest around the city. Thamel is full of shops selling everything you can imagine so the group were able to buy any last minute items of gear before we headed out to the mountains.

We started the trek after lunch and the busy path was surprisingly undulating as it meandered through forests to join the Dubh Koshi River. It passed through a number of tiny villages where there was vibrant displays of orange marigolds outside of the homes and Buddhist symbols carved into rocks. As we headed up the valley we walked over several suspension bridges with colourful displays of prayer flags fluttering in the breeze.

Lukla

Mules crossing the suspension bridge

The first night we stayed in the village of Phakding at 2610m. The lodge was cosy and we were provided with an abundance of hot tea to keep hydrated. The next morning, it took a little time for the sun to rise over the mountains tops and until that time it was cool but as soon as it reached us it provided an immediate warmth. We stopped briefly in Monjo for lunch before crossing into the Sagarmatha National Park where the guides sorted out the official passes before we descended towards the roaring waters of the river below.

At Larja Dobhan, we ascended steeply to cross a long suspension bridge set high above the steep-sided gorge below. This was the infamous bridge from a scene in the film ‘Everest’. From here, the path zig-zagged steeply up hill for 600 metres through the trees. We stopped briefly several times to catch our breath and on doing so had stunning views back down the valley below before arriving at the Sherpa Town of Namche Bazar just as the light was fading.

Namche Bazar

Namche is set in an stunning location in a semi-circular formation based in a hanging valley high on the side of a mountain. The white washed buildings with their colourful rooftops are striking set against the green vegetated hillside. It’s a charming little town  with animals roaming freely amongst the steep, narrow winding streets lined with shops, stalls, cafes and bars. We had two nights here to acclimatise so plenty of time to acquaint ourselves with both the hostelries and shops.

The following day included a short acclimatisation walk to the Tenzing Norgay Memorial where I glimpsed my first sighting of Ama Dablam, which was quite emotional for me. Unfortunately, there were no views of Everest though. Surrounded by clouds it would keep us waiting one more day!

Back on the trek the following morning, it was a frosty as we headed to Khumjung. This was only a short day and we arrived in the village at lunchtime walking past the Sir Edmund Hillary School. Sir Edmund had raised a lot of money after the first ascent of Everest with Tensing Norgay in 1953 and was highly regarded in the region.  It was this school that was the first to be built by his charitable foundation.

First sighting of Everest with Ama Dablam on the right

As we got higher, the vegetation became more stunted and scrubby with Juniper, Cotoneaster and pretty blue Gentians lining the paths. We arrived at a Chorten and it was here we were able to see for the first time the breathtaking view of Everest.  The view was simply stunning with the white rocky peaks defined dramatically against the contrasting dark blue sky.

The next day started by gently descending as we headed away from the main Everest tourist trail. This was followed by a steep climb up the Gokyo valley on a path through Rhododendron Forest in the cold shade of the day, crossing numerous frozen streams before we arrived at Dole.

Heading along the Gokyo Valley

After a cold and frosty start to the morning we left Dole and were now above the tree line continuing to traverse up the valley to Machermo. We arrived at the lodge by lunchtime and were welcomed with the now customary sweet but refreshing hot juice, which left us guessing what flavour we would have today! It is here in Machermo that the International Porter Protection Group run the Rescue Post which is staffed voluntarily by doctors from the UK. They offered healthcare at the centre to trekkers as well as to porters and everyday provided a talk on acclimatisation to raise awareness of the symptoms of altitude sickness. You could have your SATs tested here for a small donation and see where you featured on the leaderboard!

The group spent two nights at Machermo to aid acclimatisation so it was a good opportunity to wash any clothes and allow them to dry in the sunshine. We had an acclimatisation day scheduled here where we could either choose to relax or take a short climb up onto the ridge above for a brief opportunity to see Everest again peaking between the rocky ridge.

Porridge, eggs and toast provided the staple nutrition at breakfast to sustain us for the morning together with copious amounts of tea. By the now the routine was familiar, bags packed and ready to go before breakfast so these could be loaded onto the porters whilst we ate breakfast.  The eggs were usually boiled but occasionally there was the choice of an omelette, french toast or fried egg.

Due to an early snow fall, it was identified that we wouldn’t be going over the ChoLa pass so it was agreed with the Guide that we would descend back down the opposite side of the valley through a number of small hamlets until we reached the Sherpa settlement of Phortse. This side of the valley the path was more dramatic and was much quieter so it was an opportune time to see wild mountain goats upon the steep-sided slopes.

The lodges that we stayed overnight provided basic yet comfortable accommodation. Our bed for the night was in a twin-bedded room with a duvet provided to cover your sleeping bag. There was no heating within the bedrooms but some lodges had more insulation than others and the higher we ascended the colder it got and the more frost we had on the inside of the window in the mornings. This was where the group developed differing strategies for dealing with the cold. A Nalgene bottle filled with hot water doubled up as a hot water bottle in your sleeping bag and was still luke warm in the morning to wash your face and clean your teeth rather than using the icy cold water.

Inside the lodge at Machermo

The dining room in the lodges provided the main communal area and the focal point was the yak dung stove. Who’d have thought we’d all congregate around a burning pile of poo! We were grateful for the heat it provided and what a sustainable source of heating too!

It was evident when we had rejoined the main Everest Tourist trail again as the paths had become busier. We stayed over in a simple lodge at Shomare before continuing up the trail to Thukla and onto Lobuche. On the path, we passed by a Stupa and a number of memorial cairns which had been dedicated to climbers who had perished on Everest. It was peaceful as the prayer flags fluttered in the breeze under the clear blue sky but a sad reminder that sometimes it could be so cruel.

At Lobuche, most of the group were experiencing some form of mild altitude sickness whether it was a slight headache or breathlessness on exertion so it was important to drink plenty of water to ensure that we kept hydrated and maintained our energy levels.

The settlement of Gorek Shep with the viewpoint of Kala Pattar and Pumori dominating the skyline

The terrain as we headed up the valley was rocky, sandy and dusty with no vegetation. It was busy as we climbed up quite sharply in the morning sun before descending quite steeply into the windy basin of Gorak Shep. The surrounding mountains were stunning with the distinctive pyramidal peak of Pumori dominating the skyline with Everest now hidden out of sight behind Nuptse. We had a brief lunch stop in the bustling lodge before continuing up the valley to our ultimate destination, Base Camp.

We crossed the flat sandy bowl of the former lake-bed underneath the slopes of Kala Pattar and ascended onto the lateral moraine of the Khumbu glacier. It was like walking along a rocky rib with the views stretching towards the jumbled and contorted mass of ice stretching out in front. In the distance, the moraine appeared to end as the valley swung around to the right and on the rocky glacier itself there was a high mound of loose rock and scree, where a group of people had gathered. This marked the spot for Everest Base Camp.

At Base Camp

We crossed the scree, scrambling amongst the rocks with the ice creating unusual formations as it twisted, turned and pushed up boulders with its mass. By now the group was feeling tired. It wasn’t the haven I was expecting. It felt a lonely cold, exposed and windy place.  When we arrived at the rocks that marked Base Camp, there were prayer flags, graffiti-ed messages and banners. The group celebrated, hugged, recorded messages for loved ones, took photos and marked the occasion in their individual way. We couldn’t hang around too long as we all started to feel the cold. It was incredible to imagine the mass of tents here in the climbing season with expeditions preparing to ascend the dangerous and scary looking Khumbu icefall on their way to the summit. It was was an amazing feeling just being here.

The Khumbu Glacier

We retraced our steps back to Gorek Shep and arrived at the lodge as the sun dipped behind the mountains instantaneously plummeting the temperatures to sub-zero.

Following an overnight stay here, we headed back down the trail to Lobuche. Conditions were icy underfoot to begin with and the air was cool on your face. We stopped for lunch at Thukla and sat outside in the lovely sunshine, a nice contrast from the morning, before branching off the main path and traversing high above the vast u-shaped valley and steeply descending into Dingboche.

The lodge at Dingboche had lovely hot showers so we all made the best use of the facilities. Washing was something you couldn’t take for granted as many of the lodges didn’t have running water let alone hot showers. We were into a familiar routine now. Dinner was served at either at 6 or 7pm and we usually retreated to bed by around 8.30pm. No partying for us!

We left Dingboche and descended under the flanks of the stunning Ama Dablam where the path was sheltered and warm to arrive in Tengboche before continuing along the trail the next day in the shelter of the valley briefly stopping for a quick visit to the peaceful Buddhist Monastery.  We were now descending rapidly as the path wound its way through beautiful deciduous woodlands that were crisp and golden in the autumnal sun.

We stopped for lunch in Kyanjuma before continuing down the newly widened track back to Namche Bazar, where members of the group picked up a few supplies and used the cash machine before continuing to retrace our steps down the trail to the village of Monjo and onwards to Lukla the following day.

Celebrating with the Porters

It was fantastic to arrive in Lukla although a part of me was sad knowing that this was our last full day on the trail. We stayed overnight at the Buddha Lodge so that we could get one of the first flights out in the morning as it was renowned for the clouds building up later in the day preventing any flights.

We celebrated. It was good to drink beer with the porters. We thanked them for their incredible service and were grateful for all their support and assistance they had provided to us. Their amazing strength, their cheerful nature and happy smiles is something that we will remember for a long time to come.

We arrived back in Kathmandu about mid-morning so there was time to relax, freshen up, go sightseeing, shopping or even have a massage. In the evening we all met up for a well deserved celebratory meal and a few more beers. The group were presented with certificates to mark their achievements and their voyage of discovery!

Click the link to find out more about trips to Everest Base Camp: http://mountainsinmind.com/everest_base_camp/