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Spine Challenger Top Tips

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The Spine Race, Spine Challenger and Spine MRT Challenge is a winter adventure along the Pennine Way.  The conditions are usually wild. It’s often windy, snowy or rainy, sometimes all three! What’s more with it being set in winter the nights are long and the daylight hours are short. There’s a high level of attrition with often over 50% of the field retiring along the way. To get to the end requires good preparation and self-management skills. Having completed the Spine Challenger previously, getting to 200 miles on the Spine Race a few years ago and finishing the MRT Challenge, I thought I’d share a few Spine top tips that helped me to reach the finish line of the MRT Challenge this year.

1. Develop strategies to cope with mental fatigue

The mental challenge is probably as tough or perhaps even tougher than the physical challenge. There are sections of the event that can seem to drag on and take forever. Or maybe you’ve been on your own for hours on end. It’s during these long unforgiving sections that you can start to think negative thoughts. It’s important to have a strategy to be able to cope. I usually give my tracker a name. This time his name was Bob. He’s that silent, strong friend who’s looking out for you!

 

Focus on breaking the event down into manageable chunks rather than the journey as a whole. Getting to the next checkpoint or looking forward to the next stop and having something delicious to eat. Splitting it into sections helps to maintain the motivation and having something yummy to eat is something to look forward to!

Focus on positive thoughts. Think how happy you’ll be when you get to the next stop. Have a mantra or a phrase you can repeat to yourself to keep focused and motivated. Take in all the views around you, when it’s daylight anyway, and enjoy your surroundings.

2. Stay warm and dry

This will help mentally too if you are battling the elements and can stay warm. Getting cold may develop into a negative spiral. I had three layering system of headgear, which worked a treat. I started off with no hat, but I pulled my hood up over Kinder when the weather got gnarly. This progressed to wearing a thin beanie under the hood. When the conditions got really wild, my pièce de resistànce, was a fleecy balaclava. It cocooned my head and neck like a warm, snuggly comfort blanket, and covered the gap between my buff and hat. In the worst rain and wind, I pulled the hood tight on my waterproof jacket to protect my face from the elements, which felt reassuring warm.

I like to be prepared so carry an extra layer. I’m nesh and feel the cold easily. I wore a base-layer and lightweight fleece pullover under my waterproof jacket and although I was warm going up Jacob’s Ladder on Kinder, was happy that I did later on. I carried with me two extra layers, a Rab Primaloft jacket and an Inov-8 primaloft smock. Primaloft is ideal as it’s inevitable there’ll be some seepage from the rain, so it retains its thermal capability when wet.

The bad weather often catches people out and causes many runners to retire. If you know you’re a middle-of-the-pack racer and won’t be travelling that fast, it’s worth taking an extra layer as it may make all the difference between finishing or not.

A lightweight waterproof just won’t cut the mustard on a race like the Spine unless you’re one of the front runners. A slightly thicker waterproof will have better thermal capacity and is more robust. This time I wore my Mountain Equipment Kongur MRT Goretex jacket, which is standard team issue. It’s a sturdy, heavier weight jacket and was a perfect choice as I didn’t do that much running so didn’t get too hot, and I did say I felt the cold!

At the Snake Pass

3. Protect your feet.

There’s a lot of gritstone and usually mud along the Pennine Way. The combination is lethal as when the mud gets into your shoes it becomes very abrasive with the gritstone particles and can destroy your feet.

To protect my feet, I wore Inov-8 Roclite Goretex boots to help keep any water out and chose to wear a full length walking gaitor over the top to keep the mud and other bits out. Over the top of my gaiters, I wore my waterproof over-trousers from Wessenden. I pulled these tight around the ankles to give another layer of protection.

The combination worked well for me. My toes were kept warm by the Goretex boots and although my feet still got wet, which I was expecting, the gaiters kept the mud away from my socks. I changed my socks twice, smothering my feet with Vaseline at the beginning and at the checkpoint at Hebden Hay. Thankfully, I didn’t get any blisters.

4. Have access to a hot drink

I bought a last minute purchase of a small clip flask from Alpkit. It was that last minute, I bought it on my way to registration! This proved invaluable as I could carry around a hot drink.  I didn’t need to risk the chill of drinking cold water and it therefore helped me to stay hydrated. It slotted into the side pocket of my rucksack easily so I could grab it really quickly. I found that hot water worked the best in the end rather than tea.

Alpkit Clip Flask

5. Keep a supply of plastic bags and use dry bags.

Your kit will inevitably get wet when the weather turns wild. It’s worth carrying a couple of spare zip lock bags. This will keep any wet kit you’re carrying away from your dry kit you may have in your rucksack.  Extra plastic bin liners and carrier bags are useful in your drop bag too.

I stowed away my sleeping bag inside my bivi bag, which was then inside the sleeping bag stuff sack. To ensure it was kept dry, I stashed it inside a small dry bag. I then packed it inside a larger heavier weight dry bag that lined the whole of my rucksack for double protection. My spare, dry clothes were also placed inside a second dry bag. This kept everything dry that needed to be as the rain did slightly penetrate the large dry bag, but not the second.

6. Recce bits

Having done the Challenger previously I was quite familiar with the route. However, I did still  struggle in the dark and bad weather conditions to find the path that led down to the M62 bridge. What’s obvious in the day light sometimes is just not obvious in the dark!

If time is short before the race, it is worthwhile being selective and identifying what are considered the trickiest sections and would be most beneficial to recce. Try to work out where you’re likely to be when it’s dark, although that may be easier said than done! The best bits of the route are not necessarily the most difficult to navigate, I find it’s generally the field sections that are the most confusing as you can’t see where the next stile or gate is when it’s dark or claggy.

My recommendations would be as follows. However, others may recommend different bits:
  • The section from Charlestown just outside Hebden Bridge to just before Slack where you leave the Pennine Way to reach checkpoint 1. This is when you’re likely to be tired as you’re approaching the CP. It will be dark by this point too. The section initially winds its way steeply up narrow, cobbled alleyways where you could mistakenly think you’re trespassing in someone’s garden.
  • From Cowling over the fields to Lothersdale
  • From Thornton-in-Craven, over more fields, along the canal and crossing more fields before reaching the village of Gargrave.
Thank you to everyone for reading. 
I raised funds for Buxton Mountain Rescue Team as part of the MRT Challenge.
Spine Race MRT Challange the start

Spine Race: MRT Challenge

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The MRT Challenge is part of the Spine Race series and is specifically for mountain rescue team members. Starting in Edale, the challenge is to head north along the Pennine Way for 108 miles finishing in Hawes!

But why?

The Pennine Way provides the opportunity to journey along the backbone of England. Much of the time is spent in remote upland and rugged, wild landscapes. The Spine Race is like no other race. An expedition almost. It’s evocative and provides a great challenge. It’s all about being able to push the limit both mentally and physically covering the difficult terrain under the gnarliest of conditions. There’s shorter daylight hours too with it being in winter and a time limit of 60 hours to get to the finish… so why not?

I was nervous before the start. Questions were buzzing around in my head. Had my training been enough? Will I be able to cope with the lack of sleep…with the cold…with the rain? I’d been here before…It doesn’t get any easier… I knew how tough it was going to be, but do you know what?…that made it even worse!

The start

So…an hour after the start of the main Spine Challenger race, 9am signalled the start of the MRT challenge. We were off! This year, there were six of us ladies in the MRT challenge along with the gents. Would we all make it to the end?

Heading up Jacob’s Ladder and onto Kinder Scout felt quite warm initially. The wind picked up though when crossing the peaty, rocky plateau so much so, I was buffeted from side-to-side at Kinder Downfall, which was famously blowing upwards. I got a face-full of spray as I jumped over the rocks and the wind whipped the hood on my jacket straight off the back of my head!

A quick stop at the Snake Pass and on over Bleaklow. Glossop Mountain Rescue Team had set up a temporary shelter with refreshments at Torside. It was lovely to see my friend, Laura, who had come out to meet me. There were also members of my own team, Buxton, cheering me along. Mel got me a welcome cup of tea and a biscuit, but I didn’t want to outstay my welcome and was soon on my way again.

The next road crossing was at Wessenden where the light was fading rapidly. A quick check in with the safety team and I was on my way again. Then…the rain started! Heading down the valley, I stopped against a rock to pull on my over-trousers. Continuing on down the uneven track in near darkness. I like to let my eyes adjust naturally so keep my head torch off for as long as possible. The only thing was as I got to the left-hand turn where the path leaves the track, I couldn’t see to find my head torch! I thought I’d put it in my left-hand waist pocket…no! What about the right-hand? …no! Front pouch? …no! I’m sure I remember putting it in here somewhere! After a little digging around, there it was in my left-hand pocket after all!

Heading over Marsden Moor I caught up with another competitor, Anne. The weather had taken a turn for the worse. The rain was hammering down on the hood of my jacket. It was a cold, dark, windy night with limited visibility as the clouds swirled all around us as we crossed the exposed moorland. We walked almost in silence only the occasional word spoken, it was difficult to hear anyway. I was just glad of the companionship.

At Brunscough Reservoir car park, I was relieved to see that Oldham Mountain Rescue Team had set up a temporary shelter. It felt good to get out of the rain momentarily. I got a warm drink, ate some cold pizza that I’d bought with me, added an extra layer under my waterproof jacket and whipped out of my rucksack the pièce de résistance, a fleecy balaclava my mum had bought me for Christmas a few years back.

I was snugly tucked away under the balaclava in the mighty hood of my waterproof jacket in my own little headtorch bubble. Occasionally Anne and myself would confirm with each other we were heading in the right direction, but mostly we kept our heads down as we marched over Standedge, White Hill and towards the M62 crossing. A quick check-in with the safety team and we confidently strode off only to find a few minutes later, we couldn’t find the path. I never remembered it being this difficult to find before. It felt like a long time going around in circles in the awful, murky conditions before we eventually retraced our steps and realised we’d missed the slight right-hand fork off the main track that led onto a minor path where we could see the bright orange glow of the lights on the M62 beckoning us on.

Another refreshment stop was provided by Pendle and Rossendale Mountain Rescue Team in the car park of the White House pub. The weather at this point was particularly horrendous, so it was good to escape the wind and the rain, and to add yet another layer under my waterproof jacket.

Off we headed along the surfaced track over Chelburn Moor alongside a series of reservoirs, occasionally taking a swift glance to the left towards the hazy, orange glow of the Greater Manchester conurbation. Eventually, we arrived at the top of Stoodley Pike with its imposing monument that always feels quite eerie in the dark!

Upon arrival at Checkpoint 1 at Hebden Hay, it was time for a complete change out of my drenched clothes into lovely clean, dry ones before I headed into the dining room. Anne and I had agreed to meet up afterwards so we could head back out together. In the meantime, the dining room was warm and cosy so I decided to catch a 15 minute nap and rested my head in my arms.

A touch of glamour! My sparkly, checkpoint footwear!

It was still raining when we headed back out and the underfoot conditions were treacherously muddy. We got lost in the undergrowth trying to locate the narrow path that led steeply upwards. It felt like I was almost on my hands and knees trying to clamber up the slippery, vegetated slope before gaining the road to rejoin the Pennine Way.

As daylight arrived, the rain began to ease off although I felt a little cold ascending up to Top Withans. I opened the door to the bothy where my mate, Drew was sheltering with a fellow competitor. There was also a group of other walkers in there so it was rather cozy. I added another layer and had a bite to eat before we headed back out.

The Spine Race organisers craftily snook a long diversion around the roads to reach Cowling. It was good to see Darren, who had briefly stopped to give his support. The fields approaching Lothersdale were like a mud bath, incredibly slippy. Outside the village pub, there was another rest stop in a gazebo organised by a local running club. I couldn’t fault the service and the broccoli and stilton soup was delicious too!

Caroline grabs a selfie with Anne and me as we leave Lothersdale

On the approach to Gargrave it got dark again. When we arrived in the village, the landlord of the local pub invited us in to use the facilities. I wasn’t going to turn down the chance to use a proper toilet so a quick visit ensued. Next stop was a visit to the infamous Coop store in the village. Who ate all the pies?! Disappointingly, the shop was bereft of hot pies so I had to settle for a bag of crisps instead!

Crossing the fields to Malham felt a bit tedious and repetitive. I was falling asleep on my feet. A weird  sensation with my head literally nodding-off as I walked. I could see two head torches in the distance. It was my fellow BMRT team member, Kerry and her husband, Mike providing moral support. A welcome sight in the middle of the night.

I knew there were public toilets in Malham village and wondered if they would be open. Thankfully, they were and provided great floor space for a 15 minute power nap! Re-energised we almost sprinted to the top of Malham Cove although it didn’t last long!

Checkpoint 1.5 was in the Field Centre just beyond Malham Tarn. On the track leading up to the centre, the lead runner in the Spine Race, John Kelly over took us, and cheered us along as he passed. There was only hot water available which was perfect for my hydrated camping meal. A melee of other runners were around tending their feet, drinking tea and eating a variety of camping meals. A time limit was set on the duration that could be spent here as it was only a small room. We managed to blag some space in a dusty, old storeroom around the back of the building. It was on a cold, hard stone floor, not very luxurious or even comfortable, but again it did the trick for a much needed power-nap.

The ascent of Fountains Fell seemed to take a long time and on the way up I could have sworn I saw a grounded Spitfire in the swirling mist. I shook my head only to realise it was my vivid imagination. The descent felt like it went quite quickly though, maybe because it was now getting light. Although it was still as I remembered it, tricky at times especially with the uneveness of the rocky limestone path that was slippery in places from the heavy rain.

The climb up Pen-y-ghent went quite quickly. Although the scrambly section at the top felt a little awkward as I was carrying my trekking poles and couldn’t be bothered to fold them away! Before long, we were over the summit and heading down the long, rocky track towards the final safety check-in point at Horton-in-Ribblesdale.

Darren was waiting for me at the school as he was the safety co-ordinator at this stopover. I had some soup and faffed about for a bit before leaving to make the final push for the finish. Anne and I agreed to continue separately as she wanted to spend a little bit more time sorting herself out and resting before leaving. I wished her well and then I was gone.

 

The Cam High Road is an old Roman track. It climbs steadily upwards for what seems like an eternity to around the height of 600m. The wind started to pick up at this point as storm Brendon began to roll in. I ducked behind a dry stone wall for some shelter as I needed a drink. I polished off a slice of my mum’s delicious Christmas cake that I’d carried along with me too.

Battling storm Brendon

Just before the left-hand turn along the West Cam Road, I was really getting buffeted and knocked side-ways by the wind. At Ten End, the route leaves the track and descended on a slippy, muddy path towards the village of Hawes. I was really having to brace myself against the wind to maintain my composure. I was digging my trekking poles solidly into the ground to be able to stay upright although I did slip at one point where I managed a comical 360° belly-flop kind-of-roll before getting back onto my feet.

The light began to fade, the rain started to hammer it down even more as the storm became more violent, and by the time I had reached the edge of the village, it was dark. I took a rather convoluted way to get to the finish although I did manage to run a little as I headed down the main street towards the finish at the Market Hall. The claps and cheers from the spectators at the end is something that will live with me forever. Team member, Neil, proudly presented me with my Spine Race medal before I was whisked indoors and out of the awful weather to dry off. Sadly, there were a large number of retirements in the race due to the conditions so I was pleased to be one of the only two ladies who completed the MRT Challenge.

 

I’d like to say a big thank you to all the wonderful Spine Race volunteers at the checkpoints or out and about on the course. My thanks also go to my fellow Buxton Mountain Rescue Team members for their support and to the other Mountain Rescue teams for providing additional refreshments, shelter and encouragement en-route. It was greatly appreciated.

If you wish to read my Spine Challenger: Top Tips click here.

 

I was filmed at various locations en-route and I’d like to say thanks to Luke and his friends from Salford University. They are kindly giving their time to produce a social media live broadcast, which will help to raise publicity and funds for the team. My Spine Race video will feature as part of the broadcast. Follow Buxton Mountain Rescue Team on Facebook, Twitter or Instagram. Further details will be on social media when the broadcast will take place post Covid-19.

My Spine Race MRT Challenge raised funds for Buxton Mountain Rescue Team.
If you would like to donate, please click: 

Buxton Mountain Rescue Team logo

Toubkal and Atlas mountains

Climbing Jebel Toubkal in winter

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Mel first joined us on Kilimanjaro in 2017, this was an amazing adventure. We must be doing something right as we are so privileged to have had Mel join us on our Everest Base Camp trek in 2018 and Jebel Toubkal winter ascent in 2019. This enabled Mel to receive the converted ‘Triple Crown’ award for dedication, determination and above all a thank you from MiM.  Whilst we were trekking in Morocco at the end of March 2019 I ask Mel if she wouldn’t mind writing a number of BLOGS, she accepted and we are so grateful. Thanks, Mel.

The first few of us, including Darren of Mountains in Mind, arrived in sun-drenched Marrakesh in time for lunch on Friday. We checked into the traditional Riad Omar, and after being shown our rooms, we headed to the rooftop restaurant for views of the city and some lovely fresh Moroccan cuisine. After polishing off more food than we needed (a bit of a theme for the weekend!), it was time to walk some of it off. Heading across Djemaa el-Fna (town square) and into the myriad of Souks we arrived at The Secret Garden. It’s hard to believe this tranquil place is in the middle of a bustling city. We spent quite some time soaking up the hot sunshine, chatting and taking photos. We all did our own thing for the rest of the afternoon. My boyfriend and I choosing to wander around the souks and square. As the sun went down the square was just waking up with more vibrant stalls appearing by the minute. Each product type grouping together. A rainbow of fruit and vegetable stalls whipping up delicious smoothies, a row of Argan Oil vendors, the mouth-watering smells and heat coming off the pop-up restaurants all vying for our business. However, we had a dinner date back at our riad to meet the rest of the team. All aquatinted and tummies refilled we headed to bed, apart from a couple of guys who headed off to the Sky bar, which sells alcohol. Being a predominantly Muslim country this is quite rare, but proved very popular with tourists.

Saturday morning we loaded up our bodies with a good breakfast, and then our rucksacks into the minibus for the 90-minute drive to Imlil in the foothills of the Atlas Mountains. It already felt cooler at 1,700m and was overcast hiding the mountain peaks. We had some traditional mint tea before putting on our packs and setting out on the trek at a good pace. Unusually for a mountain there were proper toilet stops… well holes in the ground of course, but housed within little brick buildings. Fresh orange juice and snacks were also available at these spots. We arrived at a refuge for lunch. As we sat down we also cooled down and for the first time had a hint of what was to come. After pasta alongside a traditional salad, bread and tagine we were raring to get going again and get warm. The weather turned during the afternoon hike, and we arrived at the Mouflon Refuge (3,207m) with the wind in our faces, and snow starting to settle beneath our feet. The refuge, while basic, had all we needed. Toilet and shower facilities, dorm-style rooms, and a couple of fire heated communal rooms for socialising and eating. Knowing we had an early start coming up we got an early night.

The unsettled weather had continued overnight, leaving a good few inches of snow and drifts up to a foot deep. There was a complete whiteout, making early attempts at the summit impossible. One team headed out but returned within an hour having to abort. Sadly for us, time was not on our side. We needed to be heading to the summit as early as possible because of having to hike all the way back to Imlil by the end of the day. By 9 am with the snow still coming down, the wind still blowing, and visibility limited we had no option but to abandon any attempt at the summit.

Disappointed, but respectful of Mother Nature and our safety, we loaded our rucksacks on our backs and started the trek back down. We ploughed through the snow, our local guide is the first to break a trail. The wind was generally at our back, which was a good thing, and meant it didn’t feel too cold. As we descended the snow level dropped and eventually the tracks we were making turned slushy, mixed with the muddy trail beneath. It wasn’t long until we were looking down into a green sunny valley in front, and at the snowy cloudy peaks behind. It’s sights like this that make you feel so small and insignificant, but proud, alive and lucky to be experiencing. We finished the trail stripped back to just base layers in the sunshine. More delicious tagines and mint tea were served up at the refuge in Imlil while we waited for the hardy mules to get down with the rest of our kit.

The drive back to Marrakesh was the quietest bus ride I have ever had. We were all tired, dozing off, and lost in our own thoughts. Back at Riad Omar we freshened up and headed to… you guessed it, the Sky Bar for a few beers. Conversations flowing, and big smiles on our faces, accepting that we achieved all we could due to the mountain conditions, all vowing to be back to try again one day.

Our final meal back on the rooftop of Riad Omar was also our chance to say farewell to each other. We were heading back to the UK at different times on  Monday.

Overall a great trip, good value, plentiful delicious local cuisine, a lovely traditional Riad for Marrakesh accommodation, a varied trek, time to explore Marrakesh, well organised, despite not being able to complete the mission, and of course being with lovely like-minded fellow adventurers.

Mel Smout, a very satisfied Mountains in Mind customer for a third time.

 

 

Jebel Toubkal and Mouflan Refuge

Toubkal and the Atlas Mountains in winter…

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Jebel Toubkal trekHi there!

Darren here,

Climbing to the summit of Jebel Toubkal in Morocco is on many peoples bucket list. Morocco is only a short 3-hour flight from the UK and the Atlas Mountains can be reached in around an 80-minute drive from Marrakesh. It’s ideal for a long weekend, or perfect if you want to extend your trip and visit cultural sites, historic monuments or simply get away from it all by extending your trek in the Atlas Mountains. Further options in Morocco include a camel ride in the Sahara Desert, a trip to the historic city of Fez or an excursion to the quaint coastal resort of Essaouira. Our trip this time focused on climbing the most popular mountain, trekking to the summit of North Africa’s highest peak, Jebel Toubkal in a long weekend.  

Here’s a question before we jump into the blog…

What happens when your plan doesn’t…well…go to plan? In adventures, as in business and life, you fall back onto plan b, plan c, plan d…

It was on this weekend, we had to implement plan b during our winter ascent to reach the summit of the highest mountain in North Africa, Jebel Toubkal (4167m/13,671ft).

The team headed out to Marrakesh on Friday, arriving on different flights under the Moroccan sun. The first group, Mel, Jay, Rich and myself arrived just before lunch and checked into our hotel, Riad Omar. We met Chris who had arrived the day early from Manchester airport and after a traditional Moroccan tagine lunch, we headed to the secret garden, which featured on a BBC programme, Gardener’s World hosted by Monty Don. This is a super hidden oasis deep inside the souks of the old walled city. The peace and tranquillity is certainly a far cry from the hustle of the narrow streets and passageways, no jumping out of the way of on-coming motorbikes here!

Jebel Toubkal trek

The Secret Garden, Marrakesh

Jebel Toubkal trek

A little oasis, the Secret Garden, Marrakesh

The remaining members of the team arrived later in the evening, Dec and Adam arriving from Belfast via Gatwick, and Paul, Paul, Phil and Kevin arriving from Luton.

It’s a quick twenty-minute transfer to the Riad Omar and before long we had a delicious evening meal fit for a king! As with every dish served in Morocco, the food is fresh, no processed rubbish here… although the local mint tea can be very sweet and the Moroccans love the sweet pastries.

An early morning rise, we met for breakfast at 7 am and then headed into the Atlas Mountains and to the trailhead village of Imlil, our starting point. The journey was uneventful passing through small towns and villages, on winding roads getting higher and higher into the mountains. We passed Sir Richard Branson’s Kazbar, with its impressive walls and lovely secluded views into the mountains.

Jebel Toubkal trek

Start of the Jebel Toubkal trek, Imlil

Spring has arrived in Imlil. Fresh mountain air greeted us as we met our two guides, the cook and our muleteers, who would transfer all of our kit to the refuge high above.

The first part of the walk gets the lungs working with a steep climb to the Berber village of Aroumd, leaving the apple blossomed trees far below. The village is perched on a rocky ridge and has commanding views over to Toubkal.

Jebel Toubkal trek

Moody skies at the start of the Jebel Toubkal trek

The terrain is rockier now, but the track is well worn by locals and trekkers alike. We reached the national park boundary for the obligatory group photo. As we got slightly higher, the gentle patter of rain started. Stopping for a break, we had a freshly prepared lunch by our team in small building in a mountain settlement. The last two and half hours to the Mouflon Refuge was a little wet. This turned to snow the closer we got to the shelter of the refuge (a sign as what was to come!).

Jebel Toubkal trek

Heading out of Imlil towards Toubkal

We checked into our shared, communal bunk beds and tried to find the communal area with the lovely wood burner. The refuge was busy and everybody; guides and clients were all cozy in one of the warm dining rooms.

An early night beckoned as we would be leaving the safety of the refuge at 5am in the morning for our summit bid.

The team sorted their kit before bedtime to avoid waking the other occupants of the refuge early in the morning when we awoke.

After catching what only felt like a few minutes sleep, we started to ready ourselves for the mountain at night. I had managed to download a weather report the night before. Unfortunately, the conditions didn’t look good. After putting my boots and gaiters, on I ventured outside to check the weather conditions for myself…

Yes, strong gusting winds and swirling snow, with a whiteout at times…a no go!

We had breakfast and I suggested I would check the weather again at 6am. The team relaxed in the dining room, some catching a few more winks of sleep.

6am came and went…the weather hadn’t improved any, in fact it appeared to have gotten worse!

The summit was now un-achievable due to the conditions and with the time constraints. Damn! Maybe we could practice ice axe and crampon techniques at first light… nope! The weather was still not good with snow falling heavily all around. A decision was taken to head down. We packed and repacked our kit, as it was uncertain the mules would be able to ascend to the refuge to be able to carry our bags down. The team managed to pack all the kit into duffle bags and a rucksack to carry down, very slowly. Thankfully, it was confirmed that the mules were on their way, so we just had to pack our day sacks in the end.

Jebel Toubkal trek and Morocco adventures

Blizzard conditions at the Jebel Toubkal Refuge

The descent was in blizzard conditions with our Moroccan guides breaking trail through the freshly fallen snow, that was knee deep in places.

This was for many of the team, the first time they had experienced poor conditions like this. They were happy of the experience; a fun mini adventure so all was not lost in the aborted summit attempt.

Morocco adventure and Jebel Toubkal

Descending back to Imlil from Toubkal

Jebel Toubkal trek

Toubkal through the snow the team headed down

We only have to look and we will find great experiences in every situation!

As we descended, the snow turned to rain, then out came the sun as we reached Aroumd. When we reached Imlil, we met my good friend Mohamed, our partner in Morocco. The team enjoyed the hospitality and even more food in the Refuge Imlil,  before the mules arrived with our kit. It was all loaded onto the bus for our journey back to Marrakesh.

Jebel Toubkal trek

Toubkal behind we entered spring in Imlil With

I think we all fell asleep during the drive after the early start. We arrived back in Marrakesh, where the tranquility of the Atlas Mountains was replaced with the hustle and bustle of the city.

After checking into our rooms, it was a quick shower before we headed to the Sky Bar; one of the few places where alcohol is served.

At 7.30pm, it was time for our last meal together…Mother Nature may not have let us climb Toubkal this time, but she presented us with a stunning sunset behind the Minaret.

Morocco adventure

Stunning sunset in Marrakesh

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Kathmandu

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Things to do, places to see and restaurants to visit.

Kathmandu, the capital of Nepal is a fascinating place to visit and is usually the first port of call for mountaineers and trekkers before heading into the mountains.

The city is vibrant, bustling, colourful and aromatic…

“where life has a beauty of its own, played out in front of us on the street with a namaste and a smile”

~ Lizzi Hawker

 

The Thamel District is the main tourist centre with narrow pedestrianised streets adorned with restaurants, souvenir stalls and shops galore selling a vast array of merchandise from outdoor gear and cashmere scarves. Above are  colourful Buddhist prayer flags dancing in the breeze.

Restaurants:

The numerous restaurants have something to suit everyone’s taste. All restaurants cater well for vegetarian diets. Here’s a few that we like:

Third Eye

The restaurant blends both traditional Nepalese cuisine with royal Indian dishes. The thali is a particular favourite. This dish is ideal if you can’t make up your mind as it provides a number of small curries served in delightful copper bowls inside one large copper platter. You even get a shot of the local rice wine.

Yin Yang

A Thai restaurant situated next door to the Third Eye. It has outdoor dining as well as an indoor restaurant. The cuisine in here in mainly Thai with some continental dishes available on the menu. The deep fried spring rolls and vegetable tempura are delicious.

OR2K

This vegetarian restaurant is located upstairs on Mandala Street. You are required to take off your shoes and sit on floor cushions on low tables. The menu is vast and serves a range of dishes from the Mediterranean and far-east as well as more local cuisine. There’s plenty of choice it’s difficult to select one dish to go for. The falafels were very tasty and served with salad, hummus and a naan bread.

The Black Olive

Situated next to the Marshyangi hotel, this cafe serves a range of meals.  The menu ranges from Nepalese fused with oriental and middle-eastern flavours. It also serves breakfast. It has live music in the evenings.

La Bella Cafe and Aqua Bar

This restaurant is ideal for large groups as it is situated over two floors and has plenty of tables some of which are on a balcony which overlooks the main street below. They serve a range of Italian meals along with burgers and Indian dishes. A great place to visit as there’s something for everyone.

Greens Organic Cafe and Farmers Bar

This lovely little cafe is a favourite of mine. It’s located upstairs opposite the Roadhouse Cafe and if you can get a balcony seat it looks down over the main street in Thamel below. This little gem serves a range of vegetarian and vegan dishes. My favourite was a delicious paneer curry with brown rice and  millet and buckwheat flour momos.

Rum Doodle

This most famous of restaurants in Kathmandu is located outside of the Thamel District so it’s advisable to take a short taxi ride in the evening. The restaurant has large paper feet dangling from the ceiling, where Everest summiteers have signed their names including Sir Edmund Hillary, Rheinhold Messner and Sir Chris Bonnington. The restaurant moved from its original location to its new location after it was severely damaged by the earthquake in 2015. It serves a range of Nepalese and Indian dishes, which were generally on the hot and spicy side.

The Rum Doodle

Shops:

Trekkers Pharmacy

Opposite the Marshyangdi Hotel, this small pharmacy is ideal to stock up on supplies for a trek into the mountains. Here you can get diamox (Acetazolamide) and antibiotics without a prescription to take with you on a trek.

Shop Right Supermarket

This excellent store is great for buying a range of western snacks to take with you into the mountains plus has a vast array of toiletries just in case you’ve forgotten something or need to top up.

Pilgrims Bookstore

There’s many bookstores in Kathmandu, but this one is my favourite. It only looks small from the outside, but once you step inside its doors it’s like an Aladdin’s cave crossed with Doctor Who’s Tardis. Spread over four floors, this shop sells a range of new and second-hand books in this labyrinthine environment. It also sells stationery, souvenirs and gifts on the ground floor.

Bhandari Photo Shop

This shop is close to the Kathmandu Guest House and sells a range of camera equipment. You can also buy a Nepali SIM card for your phone if you wish to make lots of phone calls or use data when in Nepal. An Ncell SIM card is best if you need to use a lot of data, but NTC (the state provided service) is cheaper for phone calls.

Bake House

There are several bakeries and patisseries in Thamel. This one is a cafe and bistro as well as a bakery.  It serves a range of pastry products such as quiche and vegetable rolls, handmade sandwiches and a fabulous array of delicious cakes. A great place to pick up something light if you don’t want to go into a cafe.

On a rainy day:

Kathmandu Sport Climbing Centre

Nepal’s largest climbing wall is located just outside the Thamel District.

Visitor Attractions:

Boudhanath

This is the Great Boudha Stupa (see photo at the top) situated approximately 6-7km from the centre of Kathmandu. It was granted World Heritage Status in 1979. You can walk around the circumference of the stupa and be in awe of its beauty. Around the outskirts is an an array of souvenir and gift shops along with a Buddhist monastery where you can be blessed by the resident monks.

Pashupatineth

The Pashupatineth Temples is worshipped by both Buddhist and Hindus and is noted as a shining example of religious harmony. The temple is situated on the banks of the Bagmati River where open cremations take place of the deceased. It is a designated UNESCO world heritage site due to its cultural and spiritual importance.

Hanuman-dhoka Durbar Square

Another world heritage site, located in the very heart of Kathmandu is Durbar Square. There are a number of beautiful palaces, temples and shrines. It was the home of the kings of Nepal and the coronations were held here until Nepal became a republic in 2008.

The earthquake in 2015 caused severe damage to the buildings of historical importance and ongoing restoration work is still continuing. Sadly, several buildings of cultural significance were raised to the ground.

Swayambhunath Stupa (Monkey Temple)

Located 30 minutes walk from the Thamel District, is the Monkey Temple. It is worth taking a short taxi ride to the stupa located on top of a hillside with fabulous views overlooking the Kathmandu Valley. There’s a plethora of monkeys as it’s located on the edge of a forest. You can wander around this sacred site taking in the views and laughing at the antics of the cheeky monkeys.

For Page 6

Pokhara

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Things to do, places to see and restaurants to visit.

Pokhara is the second city of Nepal and lies on the edge of Lake Phewa in central Nepal. It’s beautiful lakeside location surrounded by lush green wooded hills with stunning snow-peaked backdrop means it’s a haven for tourists.

It’s the home of the famous Gurkha soldiers and is the gateway to the Annapurna region of the Himalayas with three of the ten highest mountains in the world, Dhaulagiri, Annapurna 1 and Manaslu located close by.

There’s plenty of activities located close by in Pokhara. Whether it’s something more daring, such as, paragliding or whitewater rafting or for those that want something a little more relaxing, there’s boat trips on Lake Phewa, museums to visit or a visit to Sarangkot at sunrise to take in the panoramic view over the mountains. The chilled-out nature of Pokhara is ideal for meditation, yoga or spa treatments.

Restaurants:

There are numerous restaurants in Pokhara to suit many different tastes. Nepal is a highly vegetarian society so there is always a great choice for non-meat eaters.

Fresh Elements

This restaurant is open for breakfast, lunch and evening meal serving a range of continental and Nepalese dishes. I ate here numerous times whilst in Pokhara. My favourite is the fresh banana pancakes for breakfast and the delicious paneer curry for evening meal. It is has a modern feel and a friendly, relaxed atmosphere.

Olive

A small cafe bar in the centre of Pokhara. This restaurant has a balcony overlooking the main street to while away the time and watch the world go by. It’s open from breakfast through to evening and serves burgers, vegetable platters, pasta dishes and sumptuous cake.

Moondance

A large family-owned restaurant located over two floors. The family has it’s own farm that supplies much of the produce.  Other ingredients are sourced freshly from local farmers. The restaurant has an extensive menu and serves steaks and burgers, fish, pizza, pasta and Indian dishes. It also has a good vegetarian selection.

OR2K

This vegetarian restaurant is located on the second floor of the Centrepoint complex with extensive views across Lake Phewa. It has an extensive multi-ethnic menu and has a gluten free menu. My favourites include the falafel and hummus, babaganoush and their delicious goats cheese pizza.

Jiva cafe

This cafe is combined with a spa where’s there’s a number of treatment packages. It also hosts yoga and meditation sessions. It’s set in a lovely tranquil location on the edge of the picturesque Lake Phewa. The cafe serves a range of healthy option light meals with locally sourced produce and has an extensive smoothie menu.

Jiva Cafe

Visitor Attractions:

The World Peace Stupa 

Standing on the summit of the wooded Anadu Hill, the World Peace Stupa is a fantastic viewpoint back down to the city of Pokhara, across to Sarangkot and beyond to the stunning fisthtail peak of Machhapuchhre.

You can catch one of the small boats across to Lake Phewa then follow the narrow pathway that winds it way upwards through the forest to the summit. The white stupa is a tranquil haven to meditate and relax. Located beneath the summit is a couple of cafes. Alternatively, you can catch a taxi to drive you up the dirt roads round the back of the hill to bring you closer to the summit.  Davi’s Falls can be visited on the way back down for an alternatively longer walk back to Pokhara.

Peace Stupa

Sarangkot

You can either walk up through the farm settlements and forest to the summit of Sarangkot from the shores of Lake Phewa or take a taxi ride from the city. There’s little handicraft stalls and cafes below the summit and for a small fee you can reach the viewing area. You have panoramic views over the Annapurna range, where you’ll see the majestic snow-covered peaks of Machhrapuchhre, Dhaulagiri and the various Annapurna summits. Sunrise or sunset is an especially good time to catch the stunning orange alpen-glow effect.

Gurkha Museum

This interesting museum is situated in the suburbs of Pokhara so you’ll need to take a taxi ride to reach it. It chronicles the history of the Gurkhas and their involvement with the British Army since 1815. Their motto is ‘it’s better to die than be a coward’.

The International Mountain Museum

This large modern museum with a roof depicting a mountain peak is situated on the outskirts of Pokhara. It houses the records of all successful mountaineers who have climbed one of the 8000m peaks in the country inn addition to records on the flora and fauna and human activities in the Himalayas.

It has a range of exhibits and galleries portraying the culture, natural history and mountaineering activities. Additionally, it houses a shop, restaurant and climbing wall.

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A Monkey Stole my Banana!

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Full of excitement and delighted to be heading to the mountains in Nepal! After spending two days in the vibrant city of Kathmandu,  we were like wild animals waiting to be unleashed. I was the UK Leader for a group of free-spirited ladies, the #awsoms …dynamic…business minded…up for a challenge…I was looking forward to our bespoke luxury trek around Poon Hill. Yes, that’s right…this was no ordinary trek…we had found the best accommodation the mountains could offer…no long drops or smelly shared squatter toilet facilities…we were going…en-suite!

After two days spent busy shopping in the narrow streets of Thamel and taking in several cultural sightseeing tours, the #Awsoms couldn’t contain their excitement. Glad to be heading away from the hustle and bustle of Kathmandu and on our spectacular journey through the jungle and in the foothills of the stunningly dramatic Annapurna range of the Himalayas.

With our bags packed…all in corporate Mountains in Mind duffle bags, we headed out of the city like girls empowered on a mission. Strutting our stuff as we headed to departures…our cool demeanour was rather abruptly halted…I squealed! A banana I was carrying in my right hand was rather daringly swiped from my palms by a little monkey…yes, right out my hands…before I could even comprehend what had happened!

Mugged for my banana! The cheeky little chappie ran off and proceeded to eat it with some delight! He (and I say he, but I don’t really know) seemed to be enjoying it so much that I couldn’t really begrudge him of that, could I?!

The flight to Pokhara went without any drama…we met up with our team of porters and guides at the other end and were ushered into our respective jeeps. We had a 3 hour journey ahead of us to the trail-head at Hille. Hot and sweaty, there was nine of us crammed into one jeep with all the bags loaded on top…it looked like we were going on safari rather than a trek.

The journey to Hille was hilarious…dusty, winding roads, potholes the size of craters, roads washed away by the monsoon, hazards around every bend and a driver that insisted on overtaking at every opportunity…and that was just the main road! No chance of catching up on any sleep from the early start. My eyes were heavy and I could feel myself nodding off, but every time I tried to doze off I was rudely jolted awake by my head virtually hitting the roof as we went over another mini-mountain in the road…I’m glad I’m so small!

That was the main road…then came the jeep track! A single track track, with death defying drops down to the river far below…and what’s more…no passing places. That it made it interesting, I must say! Those on the left-hand side of the vehicle were decidedly twitchy as they looked over the drop…me…I was on the right-hand side and wondered why they had white knuckles! Even more so…when another vehicle approached in the opposite direction!

We got to Hille and all piled out…before we even got started on the trek, it was up a flight of steps and straight into a restaurant for lunch! You never guess what? We ordered momos…Now there’s nothing wrong with momos. In fact, these little Nepali dumplings are a bundle of delight, but in the mountains everything is freshly made…Now you certainly can’t complain at that!…but when 7 people order momos that’s 70 momos that need to be made!

Everyone was beavering away in the kitchen like a little production line…The team work was mesmerizing to watch. Our assistant guide, Cshiring, became the chief momo stuffer before handing it over to the crimper. From this point onwards…Cshiring affectionately became known as Mr Momo!

With our bellies full, it was time for the strenuous climb up the 3421 steps, yes, someone had counted, to our first lodge at Ulleri.

It was warm and sunny when we arrived so some of the ladies decided to sit out on the grassy garden terrace, drinking tea and enjoying the views. Now I can’t blame them for that, but…unbeknown to us lurked little bloodsucking zuckers in the grass otherwise known to us as leeches…eugh!

Later on at our evening meal, we found one of the bloated slug-like creatures curled up on the floor of the dining room. Little did we know at this point, it had gorged itself of blood and had lazily dropped onto the ground off the ankle of one of our group!

Nothing to worry about… they don’t spread disease or infection, but the thought of having them sucking our blood certainly caused a commotion from time-to-time when one was spotted on our boots! From this point onwards, the term zuckers was used by the guides if they required prompt action…it certainly got the group moving quickly, much to our amusement!

The following day, the trek snaked it’s way gently up to Ghorepani. En route we passed through lush green rhododendron forests and besides stunning waterfalls to reach our overnight lodge.

An early night ensued as it was up before dawn the following morning. Out of bed at 3.45am and out of the door by 4.15am, we left the lodge in the dark, winding our way up the paved footpath to the summit of Poon Hill. Amazingly, we were one of the first groups to arrive there in the dark.

We added our warm layers…and waited around on the summit hugging  mugs of sumptuous hot chocolate bought from the hill top cafe. Before long, dawn slowly crept over the horizon. The orangey hues and heavenly glow of the sun’s rays cast shadows from the mountains all over the landscape. The colours turned through a whole spectrum from menacingly black to blue, to orange to white to yellow, followed by a warm rosy alpen glow. We were lucky to see such a mesmerising panorama with the formidable snow-capped peak of Dhaulagiri on the left, the stunning Annapurna range with the sacred Machhapucchre jaggedly pronounced on the right…A sight to behold and memories to last a lifetime.

After day break, it was a quick descent and back to the lodge for breakfast. With everyone on a high, the trek continued on it’s way. A little bit of up…followed by a little bit of down…through claggy rainforest and open scrubland. There was lots of wildflowers that captivated the attention of the group and emblazoned the landscape…Himalayan blue poppies, Michaelmas daisies, Ragwort and a variety of Balsam brought colour to the greenery.

Over the high col of the Deurali pass we had our head in the clouds as the mist closed in. A steep descent led us through a deep rocky gorge where we passed several dramatic waterfalls.  This rocky downhill section started to take its toll on the group and tiredness crept in as they began to feel the impact of the early start. After a refreshing lunch, it was all systems go again. Re-energised we continued through the small village of Tadapani to reach our overnight stop in the hamlet of Chuli.

Another lumpy day followed with plenty of ups and downs. They call this the Nepali flat! We had a big descent to the river below, followed by a big climb out of the valley on the opposite side. The path split here and we were presented with two options…either a more direct route with no place to stop for lunch or continue to follow the original more convoluted route with a nice lodge to stop at for something to eat. We chose option one, a fantastic choice as it happened…off the beaten track through small terraced subsistence farms and well away from any other walkers. This is what the real Nepal looks like without any tourists!

We reached our next stop, Jhinu Dhanda in good time. Everyone was looking forward to taking a dip in the natural hot spring baths to relieve any tight muscles. But first…now that we had descended, a cool refreshing beer was the order of the day…then bikinis on…and off we headed steeply down the path to the springs.

The hot waters were a delight. A chance to relax and soothe away any weariness from the past day or two. On the walk back up to the lodge, I felt a sharp scratch on my shin…I looked down at my leg…and oh my god…there was a zucker! It was about to take its lunch on my leg…no way…a quick flick so I thought, but it then became attached to my finger! After a little song and a dance..the little blighter was duly flicked with gusto into the bushes!

The following day was the day of three bridges. It began with a dramatic crossing over a newly constructed suspension bridge that spanned a whopping 287 metres over the raging Modi River below. Further down the valley, we crossed back to the south-side of the valley before finally crossing a rickety old wooden bridge over a tributary stream before heading up to the village of Landruk.

Our lodge was the last stop in the village, at the top of a very steep, sweaty climb. However, any negative thoughts were soon dissipated when we were greeted with great views and the most luxurious quarters we’d seen on the trek, complete with fluffy towels and crispy white cotton sheets on the bed rather than our sticky nylon sleeping bags. Little luxuries we’d missed over the last couple of days. The rest of the afternoon was free to relax on the sun loungers or read a book on the veranda.

At 6pm it was happy hour at the bar! We invited our porters and guides, bought them all a beer and held a mini-celebration to show them our gratitude for all their hard work and support on the trek. It was here that we thanked them as we presented them with their tips.

The following day, rather sensibly with no fuzzy heads in sight, we had a steady descent to walk alongside the Modi River, first on paved footpaths, then on meandering narrow trails through farmland and terraced fields and finally onto a wide-open track. It felt good to be able to stride out at a pace with our lungs now filled with oxygenated air.

We arrived at a lodge and rested briefly before ascending sharply under the blazing hot midday sun to reach the Kurlung Baraha Basic School situated high on the hillside above. Bright red in the face and literally dripping with sweat, we were ushered quietly into a shady classroom to regain our composure and cool down.

The #awsoms bought with them a stunning array of gifts…pens, pencils, books, posters and a range of teaching aids that were all gratefully received by the teachers.  We were served the most fantastic meal of daal bhat, the Nepali speciality, all freshly cooked…it was that delicious that we voted it as the best daal bhat of the trip…even better it was served with homemade chips…a true taste of home!

Following lunch, we were accompanied outside to the playground. The school children were all dressed in their navy and white school uniforms and had congregated together with their families outside to greet us. We became part of the ceremony and were presented with a garland of fresh flowers around our necks and blessed with a vermillion red dot on our forehead. Without further ado, the celebrations commenced with singing and dance performances to watch, followed by several speeches and the handing over of funds the #awsoms had raised for the school. It was a very humbling experience to watch, with the vibrancy of colours on display and the gratitude that was displayed by the community for the lovely gift to the school.

After saying our goodbyes, we left the school for the steep descent back down to the track. We were loaded onto two jeeps to commence our return trip back to Pokhara…with the fun of the bumpy roads to follow!

A couple of hours later, we arrived back in Pokhara. Staying in the elegant Temple Trees Resort and Spa, we sadly said out goodbyes to our guides and porters.  Now was the time for celebration and relaxation! A complimentary massage included within the bespoke package was swiftly taken advantage of by some of the team before we headed to the bar for cocktails…

Want to read more about things to do, places to see and restaurants to visit,
read our quick guides here to Kathmandu and Pokhara
2018-04-08 11.53.18

Leave No Trace

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There’s not many courses that you attend where one of the activities is to think of how many different words you can come up with for poo! 

 

I recently attended a Leave No Trace course for the weekend at Trefriw on the edge of Snowdonia in north Wales.  The Leave No Trace Centre for Outdoor Ethics defined seven core principles that identify best practice on how to use the great outdoors responsibly and in a sustainable manner and I was here learn more. The course enabled me to the status of a certified Leave No Trace trainer.

The seven principles are:

  • Plan ahead and prepare
  • Travel and camp on durable surfaces
  • Dispose of waste properly
  • Leave what you find
  • Minimise campfire impacts
  • Respect wildlife
  • Be considerate of other visitors

 

Over the duration of the weekend, the course was run by knowledgeable and enthusiastic trainers from Life Trek Adventures, Heidi Schwenk and Seb Shingler and was designed to build on our understanding of minimising our impact on the environment.

I’ve been passionate about the environment for a long time now and have gladly noticed how perceptions have started to change over the years.  Only 30 years ago, people who took an interest in the environment were often viewed as weird eco-warriers or some kind of tree-hugging hippy for wanting to protect the natural world. For those of us old enough, do you remember Swampy,  who became ‘famous’ by taking direct action along with others for tunnelling and tying themselves to trees in the 90s.

But with TV programmes like the Blue Planet, there has been a significant shift in perception and people are starting to take a more considered approach on how they can reduce their impact. We have only got to see what effect this has had, and quite rightly so, on how we can reduce our plastic waste.

So what did the course cover over the weekend? Well litter was one of the areas we discussed and one of our first activities was to identify how long it would take for certain items to degrade. We identified the timescales from organic matter, such as, apple cores and banana skins through to inert materials including plastics and glass. Can you believe certain items, such as, polystyrene can take over a million years to decompose? Makes you think doesn’t it?  One of items we often see is apple cores, banana skins or orange peel discarded when out in the outdoors as there’s this perception of ‘it’s ok, it will biodegrade’!  Not many people realise that it can take over two years for a banana skin to rot down and in that time, it’s classified as litter. What isn’t there naturally needs to be removed!

So what about when we get caught short in the outdoors? In Leaving No Trace human waste needs to be buried or where that’s not possible, for example, near to water sources it needs to be carried out! Eugh! It’s a subject that’s perceived as embarrassing to talk about but it’s an important message to convey. On our trek to Everest Base Camp in Nepal last year, I occasionally had to jump behind a boulder or bush for a quick wee and it was horrifying to see the amount of toilet paper left behind on the trail. It’s a mess! There’s simple things that we can do to remedy this like carrying some emergency nappy bags in our rucksacks to dispose of toilet paper responsibly.

Sunday, was spent walking up to Lyn Crafnant. We each had to deliver a session on one of the seven principles. After initially looking at how to minimise campfire impacts, where we explored how to set up a fire that left no trace on the ground, we stopped in various locations for my fellow participants to deliver their session.

We explored an old slate mine, with a huge cavernous entrance and had an interesting session discussing the industrial heritage of the area looking at how the landscape had changed over the years with the slate mining, farming and forestry and the impact this had on the community.

Further along, we were encouraged to look at our surroundings from the canopy layer in the trees through to the layer on the ground by our feet. We were entertained looking for shapes, be it trees, leaves or other items that mirrored the lines on the palm of our hands. Ingenious!

As we reached the shore of Lyn Crafnant, the weather brightened up and it was delightfully warm in the sun. Surprisingly, a sea plane landed and took off on the lake, which kept us entertained. Not something you see every day!

The next activity was thought provoking and again got us looking closer at our surroundings to reinforce the message of leave what you find. How many colours could we find from our natural surroundings and yet again poo featured when rabbit droppings were included on the pile! An interesting discussion ensued on how we could relate these natural colours to the names of paint (yes, paint!).  And then this was followed by a visual and reflective exercise looking through a frame. We used this to provide a picture frame for the landscape or at close hand to observe features around in an abstract manner.

Wandering further on, it was my turn to present a session. I was covering durable surfaces. Not an easy topic to run a session on you would think. With a little creativity, the group identified what would make a good surface for camping and what would be unsuitable. It’s not always clear cut and interesting discussions took place on when it would be more of a judgment call.

Finally, with the seven principles all explored over the two days, the final exercise was reflective and we identified golden nuggets to take away from the weekend to implement into our own practice. It certainly was a fun, thought provoking weekend with the opportunity to explore our own practice and how we could minimise our impact further on our surroundings.

Morocco 2018 059

Winter Ascent of Jebel Toubkal

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We headed out to Morocco on a business trip in January primarily to add the final touches to our Mountains in Mind trek in April.  But life would be dull if it was all work and no play, so what better way to have some fun than to take in a winter ascent of  Morocco’s, and not only that, North Africa’s highest peak, Jebel Toubkal.  

As the flight descended into Marrakech, the surrounding fields were like a patchwork quilt made up of different shapes, sizes and shades and surprisingly green for a country where temperatures in summer boast a boiling 45 degrees. Looking over the rooftops of the city, we could see the snow covered Atlas Mountains so tantalisingly close you could almost reach out to touch them.

Marrakech

It’s true what they say the city is red. The traditional buildings are made from local stone and covered in a red earthen mud, which gives them the rich colourful hue. In keeping with tradition, buildings in the new town follow suite and refreshingly, there are no high rise tower blocks. The tallest structures on the skyline are the enchanting towers of the mosques.

We were staying in a small riad, a traditional Moroccan house built around a small central courtyard. It was tucked away down quiet, narrow alleyways about 20 minutes walk from the bustling main square, the Jemaa-el-Fna. Inside the medina it was like a labyrinth. There was limited access for cars and we were met by a man with a handcart to transport our luggage for the last five minutes of the journey to our accommodation. At the riad, we were made welcome  and served a cup of mint tea before being shown to our room, which was spacious and comfortable. The following morning breakfast was served in the garden room on the roof terrace. A tranquil haven nestled above the rooftops of the busy city below with no hint of any noise apart from the relaxing tones of the babbling water feature.

We left the riad the following morning and arrived in Imlil for lunchtime. We met our guide, Lahassan, and had a short acclimatisation walk around the Imlil valley. The weather was dull and grey, and at times was snowing heavily. We traversed round the edge of the valley through walnut groves, apple trees and tiny Berber settlements to reach two waterfalls before returning back to our refuge for the evening meal.

The weather forecast was thankfully looking brighter over the next few days so we were hopeful. No one had made it to the summit of Toubkal the preceding three days due to severe snow storms and strong winds. When we got up in the morning, it had snowed heavily overnight and everywhere was covered in a blanket of snow, but as the weather forecast had predicted, the sky was blue.

We met our muleteer and mule, who would be transporting our baggage and supplies up to the refuge and then set off steadily through the village before branching off up the valley. The path climbed steadily out of the village through walnut trees to the hillside village of Aremd. Leaving the village we followed the rocky path on the course of a dry river bed to begin with and then followed a broad path to reach the national park border. The path continued upwards to the hamlet of Sidi Chamharouch, where there is a muslim shrine, a large white painted rock although it was difficult to pick it out as it blended in so well with the snow. We had a short break here, a sandwich lunch accompanied by mint tea before continuing onwards.

The path climbed steeply out of the hamlet. The snow was compact underfoot so we were grateful for our microspikes that we’d put on over our boots. It then levelled out high above the river valley and the snow got deeper and softer so it was time to remove the spikes. The mountains up ahead were shrouded in mist and kept us guessing as to our objective the following day.

Another brief stop at a small cafe, we were now in full sun so the temperature was warm. We continued to head up the valley and as we climbed higher, the snow got even deeper and was heavy going at times, but we had a good rhythmic pace. Then all of a sudden the refuges came into site nestled at the head of the valley. We made it in good time just as the sun dipped down behind the ridge and the temperature started to plummet.

We stopped in the lower Mouflon Refuge, where we unpacked and headed to the dining room for the warmth of the wood burner. A fresh pot of mint tea was waiting and soon after, we were served with a second lunc, a Moroccan  omelette with vegetables and bread, followed by sliced oranges. Delicious! Three hours later and much to our surprise we were served dinner! A fantastic three course meal consisting of lentil soup, vegetable couscous, rounded off again with orange slices.

Second lunch!

Early to bed, early to rise! We slept in one of the alpine style dormitories. The room was only half full and the temperature was decidedly chilly so we were grateful for the several blankets that are provided. Up with the larks, we headed out of the refuge at sunrise. Several groups had already left beforehand so, hopefully, they would blaze a trail through the fresh snow making it easier for us to follow.

With crampons on from start, the route weaved its way steeply up, across snow slopes and at times clambered up and over boulders. The snow was deep in most places but occasionally there were patches where the underlying scree and loose rock was poking through and scraped upon our crampons. The sun had yet to rise over the ridge so we were in the shade for most of the ascent to the coll at Tizi n’Toubkal, which kept the temperature low. We had a few quick food and drink stops to keep energy levels high and it showed how cold it was as the water in my bottle had started to ice up.

We turned left at the col and headed up the rocky ridge. The views were now breathtaking of the snow covered peaks all around the High Atlas. There was a steep snow slope our our left and a dramatic rocky corniced ridge to our right so care was needed on the exhilarating ascent. As the ridge broadened out, the angle lessened and a deep trail through the snow led us to the top.

The summit

A graffiti-ed pyramidal iron structure marks the summit and is on the very edge of steep cliffs. With cloudless blue skies and no wind, we couldn’t have asked for better winter conditions. The panorama was spectacular with views all around. In one direction, we could see Marrakech on the horizon, in the opposite direction the Sahara desert. In closer proximity, the snow covered mountains created a wonderful vista looking across to the twin peaked Jebel Ouanoukrim, Morocco’s second highest mountain. We took the ubiquitous summit photographs, had a bite to eat and chatted to fellow summiteers before heading back down.

It was ice axe out for the descent. Retracing our steps the way we came. I expected the ridge to be tricky on the descent but it was over in flash and was no cause for concern. The full sun was now overhead and was warming the snow up all around. The compact neve had softened and it was time to remove the crampons as they had no purchase in the soft snow. The ice axe was strapped to my rucksack and my trekking poles were pulled out of my bag to stabilise me on the descent. It was fun to say the least, slipping and sliding around sometimes dropping into holes in the soft snow. At least it was a soft landing! Skis would have been ideal and we were envious as we were overtaken by a couple on touring skis.

After a quick stop on some rocks, we continued to head on down the slope. Soon the refuge was back in sight and it wasn’t long before we arrived. The sun felt quite warm over head so we sat outside on the terrace with several others for five minutes until we cooled down. Inside it was time for a delicious lunch and the opportunity to chill out and dry any damp clothes in front of the warm fire.

We stayed overnight in a twin room as the dormitory had been reserved for a large group. We could see our breath as we clambered into our sleeping bags beneath both a quilt and blanket. Thankfully the nalgene bottle full of hot water made it very cozy and it didn’t take me long to doze off to sleep.

After breakfast the following morning, we departed the refuge. The snow had hardened overnight with the low temperatures so it was back on with the microspikes for the descent. The mules couldn’t come this high in the snow so our porter was carrying our main bag back down to Sidi Chamharouch. We had a good pace going, almost a trot and overtook many other parties on the descent. A quick stop in the hamlet for a toilet break and tea before continuing on the path back to Aremd.

The temperature was warm in the sun and we had tea on a sun terrace before we were drove back down the track to the refuge in Imlil for lunch. Our team had Friday prayers so as we ate lunch, they went to the mosque. Following lunch, we were driven back to our riad in Marrakech.

After a few days in the mountains it was lovely to be back in the riad. Hot showers were welcomed and the chance to chill out for a few hours before we headed out for our evening meal. The temperature felt quite chilly in Marrakech and it was on with the down jacket to find a nice restaurant. We stumbled across a small, well presented restaurant down the little alleyways of the medina. It served pizza! So two veggie pizzas and we were happy!

We had two days in Marrakech prior to our departure and spent a relaxing morning on the roof terrace of our riad, away from the hustle and bustle and a heavenly suntrap. The rest of the time we wandered around the souks in the medina, visited the Jemaa-el-Fna, had a tour of the tannery and met with our in-country partner finalising the details for the trip we are running in April. It was raining heavily when we left Marrakech in the early hours of Monday morning, much like when we left Liverpool the week before. What a perfect weather window we’d chosen and now I know why those fields surrounding Marrakech were so green!

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Nepalese Cuisine

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The traditional food in Nepal has strong influences from its surounding countries India, Tibet and China. The diet is highly vegetarian and is very healthy as it uses large quantities of vegetables and limited use of fats within the cooking. This suited me well as I’ve been vegetarian for almost 30 years now. Rice and potatoes are staple part of the Nepalese diet too.

If you do eat meat, don’t expect to eat beef as cows are the national animal and are sacred. You’ll often find cows sitting by the side of highways or wandering around the streets in the city. A sight we’re not accustomed to but nobody bothers in Nepal. Chicken is freely available on menus and sometimes there was ‘meat’ although it didn’t identify what it was!  We did find out that it was sheep or goat.  Occasionally, there was ‘buff’ on the menu too, which was buffalo. Pork is not eaten. Fish is available but as Nepal is a landlocked country it was usually tin tuna.

In Kathmandu and Pokhara there are a vast array of restaurants serving all variety of international cuisine. It’s easy to find a pizza, sandwich or burgers on the menu together with a selection of Indian, Chinese and Thai restaurants.

On the trek, the tea houses or lodges over recent years have extended their menus to cater to western tastes. I found there was usually always cheese sandwich and chips available, vegetable fried rice (or with meat) and what they called spring rolls. These weren’t like the deep fried crispy variety found in a Chinese cuisine but had been baked and filled with freshly cooked vegetables.

On the trek, all the supplies have to be carried to the mountain villages on either yaks, donkeys or porters but fresh vegetables are grown in the terraces surrounding the villages. Western treats, such as chocolate bars and pringles were available in the Tea Houses but the higher the altitude, the more pricey they became.

 

Whilst on the trek, I personally preferred to stick to the traditional dish of daal bhat as I found it light on the stomach, tasty and nutritious and kept my energy levels up. It was certainly the favourite of the Sherpas who ate it two or three times a day and coined the phrase ‘daal bhat 24 hour power!’

Daal bhat is a complex yet simple dish. It’s a mild vegetable curry usually with a portion of greens served with rice and a poppadom. Accompanying the plate is a bowl of lentil daal, which you pour over the rice. It’s a perfectly balanced meal with a mix of carbohydrates from the rice, protein from the lentil daal and greens and other vitamins from the vegetables.

No wonder the Sherpas joked about it being a super food!

Another traditional dish which is commonplace throughout is the humble dumpling or in Nepali it’s called the momo. They either contained a meat or vegetable filling and were either steamed or fried. I always preferred to opt for the steamed variety and although they looked a little pale were very tasty. They were served with a chilli -tomato dip.

A variety of noodle soups were commonly found served in the lodges on the trail. Some were made from packet noodles and others were more authentic. 

Thukpa is a heart-warming noodle soup originating from Tibet. This dish contains spices and curry flavourings and sometimes contained meat. It was either served as a starter in a small bowl or in some lodges was served as a main course in larger bowls.

Breakfast in the lodges were catered towards the western taste and a two course breakfast would set me up for the morning without feeling the need to snack in between lunch. It consisted of a starter of porridge sometimes made with water or sometimes made with powdered milk. After having some powdered milk that had gone off we stuck with water after that! Occasionally, muesli was available. After the porridge, the main course was toast served with either boiled egg, omelette or sometimes a fried egg. If you didn’t fancy any more egg, there was often jam or honey for the toast. There was little variation to the breakfast so towards the end of the trek, my group began to get a little tired with the lack of variety.

Each meal was accompanied by copious amounts of tea or coffee although it is recommended to limit the amount of coffee at altitude. The tea is black tea and is served weak without milk, which I found was quite refreshing. Large flasks were brought out with each meal.

In the mountains, fresh milk was limited but in the cities it was freely available.  Yoghurt was used to make lassi, a milkshake-like drink, which was either served plain or fruit-flavoured.

There was limited sweet-food available in the mountains. We stayed in one lodge that had a bakery attached to it and slices of freshly baked cakes were available. At other times, if you fancied a desert in the lodges they made a snickers or mars pie! It looked more like a cornish pasty than a pie though with its fluted edges. The chocolate bar was wrapped in pastry and baked in hot oven so when you cut into it you had a delightful chocolatey, gooey mess! Very rich!

Alcohol is freely available in Nepal although it’s not advised in the mountains as it affects your acclimatisation. Foreign beers and wines are available in restaurants in Kathmandu and Pokhara. There’s also local beers served too. The local tipple is Khukri rum.

 

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