Climbing Jebel Toubkal in winter
Mel first joined us on Kilimanjaro in 2017, this was an amazing adventure. We must be doing something right as we are so privileged to have had Mel join us on our Everest Base Camp trek in 2018 and Jebel Toubkal winter ascent in 2019. This enabled Mel to receive the converted ‘Triple Crown’ award for dedication, determination and above all a thank you from MiM. Whilst we were trekking in Morocco at the end of March 2019 I ask Mel if she wouldn’t mind writing a number of BLOGS, she accepted and we are so grateful. Thanks, Mel.
The first few of us, including Darren of Mountains in Mind, arrived in sun-drenched Marrakesh in time for lunch on Friday. We checked into the traditional Riad Omar, and after being shown our rooms, we headed to the rooftop restaurant for views of the city and some lovely fresh Moroccan cuisine. After polishing off more food than we needed (a bit of a theme for the weekend!), it was time to walk some of it off. Heading across Djemaa el-Fna (town square) and into the myriad of Souks we arrived at The Secret Garden. It’s hard to believe this tranquil place is in the middle of a bustling city. We spent quite some time soaking up the hot sunshine, chatting and taking photos. We all did our own thing for the rest of the afternoon. My boyfriend and I choosing to wander around the souks and square. As the sun went down the square was just waking up with more vibrant stalls appearing by the minute. Each product type grouping together. A rainbow of fruit and vegetable stalls whipping up delicious smoothies, a row of Argan Oil vendors, the mouth-watering smells and heat coming off the pop-up restaurants all vying for our business. However, we had a dinner date back at our riad to meet the rest of the team. All aquatinted and tummies refilled we headed to bed, apart from a couple of guys who headed off to the Sky bar, which sells alcohol. Being a predominantly Muslim country this is quite rare, but proved very popular with tourists.
Saturday morning we loaded up our bodies with a good breakfast, and then our rucksacks into the minibus for the 90-minute drive to Imlil in the foothills of the Atlas Mountains. It already felt cooler at 1,700m and was overcast hiding the mountain peaks. We had some traditional mint tea before putting on our packs and setting out on the trek at a good pace. Unusually for a mountain there were proper toilet stops… well holes in the ground of course, but housed within little brick buildings. Fresh orange juice and snacks were also available at these spots. We arrived at a refuge for lunch. As we sat down we also cooled down and for the first time had a hint of what was to come. After pasta alongside a traditional salad, bread and tagine we were raring to get going again and get warm. The weather turned during the afternoon hike, and we arrived at the Mouflon Refuge (3,207m) with the wind in our faces, and snow starting to settle beneath our feet. The refuge, while basic, had all we needed. Toilet and shower facilities, dorm-style rooms, and a couple of fire heated communal rooms for socialising and eating. Knowing we had an early start coming up we got an early night.
The unsettled weather had continued overnight, leaving a good few inches of snow and drifts up to a foot deep. There was a complete whiteout, making early attempts at the summit impossible. One team headed out but returned within an hour having to abort. Sadly for us, time was not on our side. We needed to be heading to the summit as early as possible because of having to hike all the way back to Imlil by the end of the day. By 9 am with the snow still coming down, the wind still blowing, and visibility limited we had no option but to abandon any attempt at the summit.
Disappointed, but respectful of Mother Nature and our safety, we loaded our rucksacks on our backs and started the trek back down. We ploughed through the snow, our local guide is the first to break a trail. The wind was generally at our back, which was a good thing, and meant it didn’t feel too cold. As we descended the snow level dropped and eventually the tracks we were making turned slushy, mixed with the muddy trail beneath. It wasn’t long until we were looking down into a green sunny valley in front, and at the snowy cloudy peaks behind. It’s sights like this that make you feel so small and insignificant, but proud, alive and lucky to be experiencing. We finished the trail stripped back to just base layers in the sunshine. More delicious tagines and mint tea were served up at the refuge in Imlil while we waited for the hardy mules to get down with the rest of our kit.
The drive back to Marrakesh was the quietest bus ride I have ever had. We were all tired, dozing off, and lost in our own thoughts. Back at Riad Omar we freshened up and headed to… you guessed it, the Sky Bar for a few beers. Conversations flowing, and big smiles on our faces, accepting that we achieved all we could due to the mountain conditions, all vowing to be back to try again one day.
Our final meal back on the rooftop of Riad Omar was also our chance to say farewell to each other. We were heading back to the UK at different times on Monday.
Overall a great trip, good value, plentiful delicious local cuisine, a lovely traditional Riad for Marrakesh accommodation, a varied trek, time to explore Marrakesh, well organised, despite not being able to complete the mission, and of course being with lovely like-minded fellow adventurers.
Mel Smout, a very satisfied Mountains in Mind customer for a third time.
